Kyrgyzstan is still one of the best kept secrets among hikers. Few know that here on the edge of Pamir Mountains is a trekking paradise with an incredible nature that easily rivals Switzerland's Tyrolean landscape. In the small Central Asian state 94% of the land area is covered by mountains, and 40% is higher than 3000 m above sea level. And as icing on the cake every summer the Kyrgyz shepherds occupy the mountain valleys with their decorative, mushroom-like, round, white yurts. On this trip I am back in the Pamir-Alay Mountains to visit the shepherds, whom I met 20 years ago (see
here). Later on the trip we took our chances to be the first this summer over the pass Ak-Art (4522 m), a pass where it is recommended to use ropes and crampons on the way down. Unfortunately, we did not know this before it was too late, but one can reach quite far by sliding on your bottom.. Later, we drove up to the Song-Kol, a highland lake in about 3000 m, to attend a local festival with horse racing and Kyrgyz football (Buzkashi, a game in which horse-mounted players attempt to drag a goat carcass toward a goal).
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 Exchanging petrol on the way towards Pami-Alay |
 Donkeys are a popular means of transport in the mountains |
 On the way to yak market |
 The big yak bulls are traded and then transported to the Slaughter house |
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 An infinitely large campsite |
 Trading yak bulls |
 This yak escaped the slaughterhouse this time |
 Future shepherds |
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 Collecting fire wood |
 Older Kyrgyz man who we met in the mountains |
 The women always take care of the children |
 Kyrgyz family in the mountains |
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 A donkey can carry several hundred kilos |
 This family offered us a delicious risotto |
 Family photo taken at the same place as I did it 20 years ago |
 The family's eldest members offered tea and freshly baked bread with kefir |
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 Family Photo after 20 years |
 20 years ago, the family had a camel - now they have swapped the camel out with a jeep |
 On the way to visit family |
 The young men were just little boys on my Pictures taken 20 years ago |
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 Going to milk the yaks |
 The yaks are milked every evening |
 We were offered our own personal yurt at this family |
 All milking is done by the women |
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 The little calf keeps the muzzle until the mother has been milked |
 There is no dress code in the Mountains.. |
 Older sister takes care of her little brother |
 A proud father |
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 A typical summer camp for shepherds |
 Infants are strapped into the cradle |
 Street children.. |
 The women take care of the children, while the men are herding sheeps in the mountains |
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 A proud grandmother |
 A yurt is made of felt and can be erected in half a day |
 The sheep gather together for the night so they do not get taken by wolves |
 In the bottle there is fermented mare's milk |
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 Two little mischiefs |
 Sometimes it's boring to be a shepherd boy |
 Kyrgyzstan has more sheep than people |
 The shepherds make Money by selling sheep wool |
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 With a view of the world's roof |
 Acclimatization at almost 4000 m |
 Sheeps going off road |
 Cheese balls made of yakmilk |
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 Kyrgyz children are unusually cute and very well-behaved |
 Last family picture before we take off for Ak-Art Pass |
 Local shepherd who helps us towards Ak-Art Pass |
 With the help of the shepherds horses and donkeys, we quickly get up in height |
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 Ak-Art Pass can be seen at the bottom of the valley |
 Towards the top of the pass |
 At the top of Ak-Art Pass (4522 m) |
 First camp after a hard descent from Ak-Art Pass |
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 The first morning after the descent from Ak-Art Pass |
 The first sign of life after two days of descent from the pass |
 The stone desert in the heights is replaced by a green and fertile valley |
 By the locals we are offered freshly baked bread, tea and fermented mare's milk |
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 Ready to Kyrgyz football (a kind of rugby with a goat carcass) |
 The rider here has the 'ball' (the goat carcass) |
 No need for a bridge - a horse is always nearby |
 In the first village we come to, we hire a car to drive us back to Osh |
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 Kyrgyz traffic jam |
 The market in Osh |
 Selling fresh meat in 35 degree Celsius |
 Bakeries in Osh market |
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 Kyrgyz hat for shepherds |
 Towards Kazarman - we drive together with two brothers |
 On the way to the festival at Lake Song-Kol |
 Hotel, grocery and gasoline (Lake Song-Kol) |
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 Lake Song-Kol |
 Festival at Lake Song-Kol |
 The yourts are heated by a small stove |
 Dressed up for festival |
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 Two herders on the way to the festival |
 Lake Song-Kol |
 Lake Song-Kol |
 As long as it runs and is in one part, it's called a car |
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 The local ensemble is ready to give a concert at the festival |
 Lake Song-Kol is located at about 3000 m |
 Kyrgyz national costume |
 Cops keeping watch during the festival |
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 Ready to experience the festival's competitions |
 Kyrgyz football - the rider is trying to pick up the goat carcass from the ground |
 Kyrgyz football |
 It's a fight to be the first who picks up the goat |
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 The trick is to keep the balance on the horse |
 It looks like a clear winner |
 It's close to acrobatics |
 Horse race for the children |
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